1. Before building your chicken tractor, Draw up a Design of how you envision the structure; you can look online to aid you in doing so.

* We chose a triangular design after browsing through images because it seemed to offer the most structural support as well as being relatively simple.

2 . Make measurements, Cut Pieces, and Build Frame

* The wood that we had to work with was limited, and for that reason the measurements that we used were relative to the cuts of wood that we had.

Quantity Size Cut Purpose

3 2"x4"x7' Both flat (90o) Corners of Triangle

3 1"x1"x4.5" Both ends at 45o angles outward Downward Supports

6 1"X1"x42" Both ends at 45o angles outward Top Supports

3 1"x1"x20" Both ends at 45o angles outward Middle Supports

2 1"x1"x40" Both ends at 45o angles outward Bottom Supports

4 1"x1"x3'5.5" Both flat (90o) Lenghtwise Supports

2 1"x1"x40" Both flat (90o) Very Bottom Supports

* We found it easier to attatch the 1"x1"x4.5" pieces to the 2"x4"x7' that was to be the top of our chicken tractor using 1.5" screws. We placed one flush with each end and one in the very middle. We then attatched all six 1"X1"x42" on either side of the 1"x1"x4.5" supports. Before attatching the 1"x1"x20" supports we screwed on the two 1"x1"x40" bottom supports; this just makes it easier to put the middle supports on.

* Perpendicular to the 1"x1"x4.5" downward supports we attatched 1"x1"x3'5.5" lengthwise supports. We placed these in a fashion that was flush with the 1"x1"x20" middle supports. It is to these pieces that we later staled the shade cloth to.

4. Attatch Wheels and Handles

* The wheels that we purchased are entirely galvanized steel and only cost $5.00 at the local hardware store. We attatched them to the corner of the bottom 2"x4"x7' corners of the triangle with two screws and to the very bottom 1"x1"x40" support with a third. A wheel was attatched to all four corners. To the front and back faces of the triangles, where the top 2"x4"x7' beam and the 1"x1"x4.5" supports meet, we attatched handles so as to push and pull the chicken tractor.

3. Attatch Shade Cloth, and Chicken Wire

* So as to provide the chickens with a source of shade we attatched cloth along the upper portion of the chicken tractor's frame. Pulling on the cloth while using a staple gun, we made sure it was as tight as possible. On the triangle fances we had to do some bunching to make it tight. We then cut the remaining fabric off.

* We obtained chicken wire for $1.00/1'x4' at the hardware store. We stapled the chicken wire over the fabric on all but the triangle face where the door was to be placed. Using wire cutters we removed the remaining chicken wire.

4. Build the Door

Quantity Size Cut Purpose

4 2"x4"x14" Both flat (90o) Vertical part of frame and door

1 1"x1"x14" One flat (90o) One 45o outward Next to frame; to staple wire to

2 2"x4"x20" Both flat (90o) Horizontal part of door

* To build the frame of the door turned out to be the most difficult part. We used 2 hinges which came in a pack together and cost $4.00 at the hardware store. We first built the frame using two 2"x4"x14" vertical pieces then built the door using the two remaining pieces as well as the two 2"x4"x20" horizontal pieces (For this it required 2.5" screws). We attatched the door to the frame using the hinges and then sandwhiched the hinges between one of the 2"x4"x14" vertical pieces from the frame and the 1"x1"x14" piece.

5. Finish off the Door Side Chicken Wire

* Staple chicken wire to the door and to all the parts of the chicken tractor's frame.

6. Let the chickens roam the yard without having to worry about your crops

We have again added bed space to the Energy Garden, this time in the shape of a mandala. Utilizing techniques from Gaia’s Garden by Toby Hemenway, we are slowly building the hardpan barren “lawn”, read: super invasive bermuda grass and clumps of dead sod, into nutrient rich humus. As double digging was near impossible, we are letting the worms to the work by creating a sheet mulch close to 18 inches thick.

First we created the design for the area and then marked the edges of the mandala on the earth. Next we began creating the bed. Otherwise known as lasagna gardening, we chopped away some of the clumps of grass and started with an inch layer of manure. We followed that with cardboard, then with an inch or two of organic vineyard compost from Grab and Grow in Sebastopol. According to the grab and grow website, it is “made from a simple blend of grape pumice, green waste and oyster shell flour, this compost has no manures or supplemental nitrogen fertilizers added to this high potassium mix.

This was followed by a single “book” layer of wheat straw, then with another inch or two of mango mulch. “It doesn’t have any mangos in it, but it does have horse and cow manure to supply basic nutrients; grape and apple pumice which are high in beneficial bacteria and yeasts to aid with the breakdown of organic matter; rice hulls and straw for good soil tilth; soft rock phosphate and greensand to boost the phosphorous and potassium.” This was followed by a layer of alfalfa straw and wheat straw mixed together. We will plant by opening pockets in about a month.

Next we created the paths by laying burlap bags donated by Taylor Made Farms in Sebastopol. On top of the burlap we put down woodchips. The irrigation was then laid under the straw. We have also sheet mulched and prepared a new berry patch next to the sunflowers and driveway in the front of the house. In an epic battle with the Bermuda grass we have also sheet mulched all of the paths on the property with cardboard and woodchips. We hacked down most of it and hope it never comes back. It looks great right now.

Before...

After... let the worms do the digging!

For the past two and a half months I have been a part of the Post Carbon Institute's efforts to encourage relocalization and investigate strategies for a post carbon world. Starting with a residential backyard in Sebastopol California, we transformed a portion of lawn into twenty one 4x10' energy crop beds. As time progressed so did our ambitions; we extended into the front yard where we double dug ten 4x20' beds and in another section three 4x33' beds. The soil in which we are digging is of the Sebastopol sandy loam series and therefore provided rapid drainage and contained low quantities of organic matter. To each bed we added a couple wheel barrows worth of compost to improve the organic content of the soil as well as to encourage water retention in the A horizon. For the paths surrounding the beds we laid medium sized cedar wood chips to serve as aesthetic appeal and weed prevention.

As temperatures increase, the next phase of our project required laying irrigation for the 2168’ of fertile soil. We chose to use ½” pvc attached to ¾” drip line as it is the most resource conserving method of watering as well as very flexible in the methods of watering that it allows for. Installing an automatic timing system to govern four valves as well as manual shut off valves at each bed allows us complete control of the amount of water we use; with each line running at a half gallon per hour we will be able to utilize the system to calculate the amount of water input per biomass output.

Along with energy crops, we have planted a variety of vegetables and just recently an herb garden including both medicinal and culinary herbs. Due to the nonlinear placement of plants in these beds we will be laying a mist emitting line, running from the same automated system, in the near future.

To assist in jump starting the planting season we have built three cold frames in which we can safely keep flats of seedlings overnight without any risk to external conditions. Using a layer of manure beneath the flats we have employed exothermic bacterial decomposition as an overnight heat source.

We recently purchased four pullets: one Rhode Island Red, and 3 Sex-links. Out of recycled wood we have built for them a chicken coop equipped with a removable floor, an outward opening wall, and an egg harvesting panel. At night they are safely protected from predators as well a provided with comfortable roosting conditions; however, during the day they are allowed to roam free in the 150 sq. ft. pen that we have built.

To the grass we removed and other organic material, including food scraps from the kitchen, we are adding straw and dirt and promoting decomposition in three compost containers that we have constructed. The chickens are allowed access to two of these containers.

With the summer quickly approaching there are many exciting tasks ahead of us: flats to be planted, seedlings to be transplanted, and many more building projects (benches, pocket gardens, a living roof, etc.), not to mention the regular maitenance.

1. Building a Solar Oven begins with Evaluating the Tools and Materials that You Have to Work with.

* A month or so ago we had a window donated to us. Initially we were going to incorporate it into a cold frame structure however it seemed appropriate for a solar oven. All of the cuts were made in accordance with the dimensions of one of the panes which were 33.5"x26"

2. Designing the Solar Oven

* As with most structures it is a good idea to browse images of other designs; this allows you to identify features that are consistent among the designs as well as exposing you to possibilities you might not have been aware of.

* In general you can determine the angle at which to position your solar panel by:

latitude - 15o (summer)

latitude + 15o (winter)

Because Sebastopol is located at 38oN the ideal angle for incident solar radiation is 23o.

*It is also important to have in mind the positioning of the reflective panels when designing the frame of your solar oven. Make sure that you can open your oven while maintaining flexibility in adjusting the reflective panels.

3. Making Measurements, Cutting Pieces, and Constructing the Frame.

* Remember heat should stay in the oven; be precise in your measurements and cuts. Large gaps will only make it harder when it comes time to caulk.

Quantity Size Purpose

1 2"x4"x36.5 Front Refelctive Panel Attatchment

1 2"x4"x33.5" Front Wall

2 1.5"x11"x26" (angled) Side Walls

*Note: Between the height of the window pane and the heights of the back and front walls I was able to determine the measurements of the side wall and make cuts with the table saw.

1 1.5"x11"x33.5" Back Wall

4 2"x4"x11" Back and Back-Side Reflective Panel Attatchment

2 2"x4"x2" Front Side Reflective Panel Attatchment

2 2"x4"x8" Inside Supports for Back and Side Walls

2 1"x1"x15.5" Front Window Lip

1 1.5"x36.5"x28" Floor

2 0.5"x16"x36.5" Front and Back Reflective Panels

2 0.5"x16x28" Side Reflective Panel

4. Painting Black, Caulking, and Attatching the Window

* Painting the inside black assists the solar oven in retaining as much heat as possible. Using a paint with a high gloss provides a sheen that can retain more heat.

* Be sure that the caulk you are using can sustain the high temperatures that your oven will reach.

* I was lucky enough to have a window pane that I could screw my hinges into. It also came with a locking mechanism that I removed and attatched to the front wall of the frame.

5. Sealing in the Heat

*Insulating the gaps where your window meets the walls is a good idea; it will allow for higher temperatures to be reached.

6. Attatching the Reflective Pannels

* Although there are many materials that can provide the silver reflective properties that you are looking for be sure that what you choose is easy to work with. In my initial plan I had included mirrors; however, due to the fragility of glass and a need to make specific cuts, I chose to work with the reflective insulation material that is often associated with winshield solar protection. I was able to shape this to my cuts of wood easily and attatch it using a staple gun.

* Figuring our how to make your angles adjustable yet secure is tough. I used hinges for each panel and added an additional adjusting hinge to hold each pannel in place. Attatch your hinges to the previously assigned parts of the frame in a manner that does not conflict with the opening and closing of the solar oven's window.

*Note: You will probably want to install a thermometer to monitor the temperatures inside of the oven

Arriving thirty strong, equipped with cameras, notebooks and perspectives freshly shuffled by a week of holistic earth care instruction, OAEC's permaculture class toured the Energy Farm. They came a little after ten and over the next two hours engaged in a participatory dance throughout the small suburban site. President Julian Darley addressed the students as they surrounded the front "yard", now in full bloom with broccoli, millet, basil, peppers, and many other beneficial plants.

He spoke about the philosophy guiding the Energy Farm Network and the urgent need to relocalize our food and fuel production. Darley challenged the students with problems about bio fuels produced using industrial agriculture citing the huge amount of land and oil that it takes to grow and process these crops. In his brief fifteen minute intro he gave the students some context related to peak oil and the adaptation process we face in this lifetime, calling this time the "great transition."

Brought by Brock Dolman, permaculture elder and master instructor, this tour was special because it was a large group, very well informed and keen to learn about and address the deeper challenges of such an ambitious project. After Julian finished, we divided the group. Half went on tour of the grounds and the other half engaged in mini design charrettes. After forty minutes the groups switched.

We created four design charrettes aimed helping the students practice their site analysis and design skills. Each charrette focused on a zone of the property. The four charrettes were called the Fukuoka forage forest, zone one patio, sixteen square foot garden bed, and water.

The “Fukuoka Forage Forest”, named after Japanese farmer Masanobu Fukuoka, focused on the back part of the lot under the apple trees and adjacent to the fence. The students came up with several good ideas to implement in the zone furthest from the house: cob benches for seating in the gazebo, an outdoor kitchen to process food, a cob oven, an outdoor shower, more worm bins, incorporating bees, temporary fencing for chicken forage, mushroom cultivation, introduction of ducks to the system, a possible pond under the largest apple tree, birdhouses, creation of roof structure over the chicken coop for roof catchment and shelter for birds.

The zone one patio refers to the area closest to the house in the back. Currently, hot and inhospitable with crushed rock and concrete, the area is relatively neglected considering the proximity to the house. The students focusing on this area envisioned; an arbor on the porch, a trellis of kiwi and grapes, planting a fast growing shade tree, breaking up all the concrete except under the patio and doors, using broken concrete for pavers to make paths, using the fence to grow vines on, cultivate bamboo, sandbox in corner with cob walls with planter pockets, planning a soft ground cover, hanging pots from the eves, building a culinary herb bed.

The charrettes that focused on water produced an assessment of the incoming water and cited some of the future tasks for addressing the issue further. They mentioned: municipal water input, runoff from street and driveway, conservation techniques, the need to get an accurate square footage of the every roof on property to calculate water catchment capacity, a need to find the highest elevation on roof for downspout, a need to find a place for storage tanks, how to handle wastewater, and they looked at ways to “slow it, spread it, and sink it.”

We currently have six pocket gardens that are four feet by four feet. We challenged the students to create planting plans that focused on a theme. One group chose to create a plan with a medicinal focus, and the other focused on companion planting with a 60 % calorie, 30 % carbon, and 10% vitamin ratio. The group that keyed in on medicinal plants decided to sow in a spiral pattern with echinacea in the center followed by chamomile, lavender, jewelweed, nettles, mullein, ginseng, purslane, plantain, yarrow, selfheal, valerian, comfrey, ginger, garlic, and dandelion. The 60/30/10 group decided to plant in a symmetrically opposing pattern of strawberries, spinach and lettuce, calendula, pumpkin, amaranth, and scarlet runner beans on trellises.

The hour and forty five minutes was extremely productive as it exposed the students to the desire to create an energy farm network and it also provided some key input as to future improvements of the land here in Sebastopol. Everyone seemed to leave energized and motivated and it was great preparation for the community tours on Friday the 28^th and Sunday the 30^th. In closing, Julian reminded the group that in order to adjust to the coming changes we need to “reduce consumption and produce locally” and that these two things are inevitably intertwined because as we begin to produce locally we will reduce our consumption and as we reduce our consumption because of peak oil we will have to produce locally. May our net work guide the way.

"Today fifty-eight million Americans spend Approximately thirty billion dollars every year to maintain more than twenty-three million acres of lawn... the lawns in the United States consume around 270 billion gallons of water a week- enough to water eighty-one million acres of organic vegetables, all summer long... in fact, lawns use more equipment, labor, fuel, and agricultural toxins than industrial farming, making lawns the largest agricultural sector in the United States." (H.C. Flores, Food not Lawns, pg. 12)

Converting your yard from a resource depleting lawn into a productive garden is much easier than one may believe.

Step 1. Plotting your garden

The first step to transforming your lawn into a productive garden requires designing a layout of how you want your garden to look and the types of plants that you want to grow. It is important to make accuarate measurment of the space that you are working within as well as to consider the conditions of the yard that you are working in. This means obtaining information about the soil, climate, sun exposure, and other factors that may affect your choice of flora.

It is important when planning the crops that you want to grow, that you consider the niche and life spans of the plants.

Step 2. Removing the grass and improving the soil

a. Using a scythe, cut the grass to height that can be easily worked.

b. Using a pickaxe, remove the top layer of sod while breaking up the layers below.

c. Using a rake and a wheel barrow, remove organic material from the plot.

* This is a good time to start thinking about constructing a compost pile as a place to promote the decompostition of organic material into a nutrient rich soil amendment that can be incorporated into the garden during the next planting season.

d. Using stakes, a hammer, and string, plot each bed.

e. Using a wheelbarrow and a shovel add compost to the locations of future garden beds.

Step 3. Irrigation

Having selected the plants and established the beds to grow them in, you should start thinking about methods of maitenance, prirmarily watering. Using a watering can or the hose may be your first thought; both do a good job at distributing water; however, much more water is emitted than needed. This excess water, aside from being wastefull, is distibuted to places where plants are not, and promotes the return of the weeds that you worked so hard to remove.

I recommend drip irrigation as a solution. It is relatively cheap to purchase the parts and installation is comprehensive.

Drip irrigation allows for a 30-50% reduction in water usage while extending the watering times for plants. It prevents soil erosion and run off while discouraging weeds as well as fungal diseases. A drip irrigation system is accommodating to a dynamic garden by allowing for different spacing of emitters, different types of emitters, and different amounts of emission. By using a drip system of irrigation you are able to quantitatively analyze the water input per crop yield.

Step 4. Planting

Step 5. Mulching the beds

Step 6. Chipping the paths

The Sebastopol Demonstration Energy Garden, an initiative of Post Carbon Institute, has begun constructing a wetland water catchment system capable of treating grey water. The system reflects the goals of Post Carbon Institute by demonstrating reduced consumption and facilitating localized production. It allows for extended retention of runoff water on the property so that it may be diverted to areas of necessity during times of scarcity. In addition, it demonstrates sustainable urban methods of treating contaminated water and low impact techniques for re-integrating it with groundwater. This project aims at establishing a tool that allows for the investigation of constructed wetlands in the remediation of contaminated waters as well as providing literature on the replication of such systems.

The selected site, at 327 Murphy Avenue in Sebastopol, California lies within the Laguna de Santa Rosa Watershed. It is characterized by the moderately slow permeability of its soil, and the relatively high annual rainfall it receives. Onsite are three separate buildings, of which the system utilizes only a fraction of one, an 8.5x24’ portion of the 1500 square foot house capable of collecting 5,205.825 gallons of rainfall over the course of an average year. Due to the seasonal differences in precipitation and soil permeability on site, the system was designed such that it could receive grey water (pending approval from local authorities) during summer months when water is scarce but sunlight is ample, and rainwater during winter months when soil permeability and bioremediation are reduced.

The system currently consists of a surge tank that receives water from the roof of the house, two constructed wetland tanks, and an outlet tank containing a solar powered effluent pump, each connected to the next with 1 ¼” PVC. Once water is allowed entrance to the circuit from the surge tank it travels through each constructed wetland tank as well as the outlet tank many times over until it is manually released into a branched drain that empties at fruit tree mulch basins. The system was designed such that it can accommodate the estimated 30.5 gallons of daily grey water input during summer months and 35.6 gallons of daily rainwater input during the winter.

Implementation of the system began in November of 2007 and shall continue through 2008, with maintenance continuing indeterminately. Construction of the system began with excavation of the selected site, followed by the setting and plumbing of the tanks, and development of the surrounding landscape. Upon establishing the hydraulics of the system as well as the stability of the wetland flora and fauna, the system will be ready for the integration of grey water components. Monitoring of the water quality, sediments, and biota has begun and will continue as the wetland develops. The data produced will allow for investigation of constructed wetlands in the remediation of contaminated waters, and assist in pursuing Post Carbon Institute’s goals of demonstrating reduced consumption and facilitating localized production.

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PROJECT GOALS:

It is the goal of Post Carbon Institute to demonstrate reduced consumption and localized production. In this project we are focusing primarily upon the use and conservation of water in the garden and surrounding landscape. One purpose of this project is to prolong the retention of runoff water on the property so that it may be diverted to areas of necessity during times of scarcity. Another purpose is to demonstrate practices on the compact scale for the treatment of used water so that it may be safely recycled into the ground. By reducing our consumption of water, we consequently reduce our consumption of energy.

It is the goal of Post Carbon Institute to provide information on actions that enhance regional sustainability to the scientific community as well as the local community. This project serves as a tool for the investigation of constructed wetlands in the remediation of contaminated waters as well as a replicable model for future systems.

SITE ANALYSIS:

Post Carbon Demonstration Energy Garden

327 Murphy Ave

Sebastopol, CA, 95472

WATERSHED

The Energy Garden belongs to the Laguna de Santa Rosa watershed, the largest tributary of the Russian River, capable of storing over 80,000 cubic feet (99,000,000 m³) of stormwater. Soil types within the Laguna vary depending upon location; those onsite have been classified as Sebastopol Sandy Loam, characterized by moderate to rapid runoff; and slow permeability. During the winter months the soil remains moist and the water table high, with summer conditions being very dry.

Month: J F M A M J J A S O N D
Moisture: M M M M MD MD D D D MD MD M

M = Moist all parts
MD = Moist some parts
D = Dry all parts

(National Cooperative Soil Survey, U.S.A.)

Energy Garden Weather Station

The average annual rainfall for the region is 40.83 in/year; months that express high rainfall correlate with those in which the soil expresses high moisture content. The wettest month of the year is January with an average rainfall of 8.65 inches.

Month: J F M A M J J A S O N D

8.65 7.64 6.15 2.25 1.03 0.25 0.08 0.11 0.52 2.01 5.85 6.29

(Graton Weather station, 3.20 miles from Sebastopol)

SITE CAPABILITIES

Onsite are three separate building, an office that is 216 square feet, a garage that is 323 square feet, and the 1,500 square foot house, all of which are equipped with gutters and downspouts. The amount of rainwater that each roof is capable of collecting can be determined by the following equation.

Area of house (sqft) * Annual rainfall (in) = Cubic feet of water collected by roof over course a year

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Because 7.5 gallons are contained within one cubic foot of water it can be concluded that the roof of the house on the property has the potential of collecting 38,278.125 gallons/year.

(1500 * 40.83)/12 = 5103.75 * 7.5 = 38,278.125 gallons water/year

During a 62 day period (6/30/07-8/31/07) the household and the garden consumed 160 cubic ft. of water. This includes the needs of the household and the irrigation needs for the 3,500 square foot garden. By projecting these summer meter reading, in which no rainfall occurred, upon the whole year it can be predicted that no more than 7,181.298 gallons are consumed by the household each year. Considering that the roof alone is capable of collecting 38,278.125 gallons per year, there should be no reason that the garden cannot be irrigated on collected rainwater alone.

160 cubic ft * 7.5 gallons/cubic ft = 1196.883 gallons
1196.883 gallons * 6 = 7181.298 gallons used

The amount of grey water produced by the household can be estimated using proposed calculations. Art Ludwig, author of The Grey Water Builder’s Manual and Create an Oasis with Grey Water, has projected volumes of grey water output upon plumbing fixtures, based on their weekly use and the number of occupants. It has been estimated that for each occupant a top loading washing machine produces 45 gallon/week, a bathtub 30 gallon/week, a shower 65 gallon/week, and a bathroom sink 10.5 gallon/week. The reason that other potential sources for grey water output have not been considered is due to the legality of their implementation in grey water systems. The household onsite functions as both a place of residence and business and therefore the amount of grey water output must reflect a more frequent usage.

Occupants: 2 adult residents, 1 child

4 onsite employees

Top loading washing machine: 3 * 45GPW = 135GPW/7 = 20GPD

Public bathroom Sink: 7 * 10.5GPW = 73.5GPW/7 = 10.5GPD

Private bathroom sink: 3 * 10.5GPW = 31.5GPW/7 = 4.5GPD

Shower: 3 * 65GPW = 195GPW/7 = 28GPD

Grey water produced = 345GPW = 50GPD

So as to determine the rate of absorption by the soil, the irrigation demand of the fruit trees was calculated. The site selected for water deposit is more than capable of holding the amount of treated grey water that the system will emit each week.

Irrigation Demand = Regional Evapotraspiraton value * Plant water usage factor * Irrigated area * 0.62

Irrigation Efficiency

ID = (1.0) * (0.8) * (300sq ft) * (0.62) = 186 gallons water/week

0.8 * All values can be found in Art Ludwig’s, Grey water Builder’s Manual. (0.62 is conversion from inches/sq.ft. to gallons.

DESIGN

Upon evaluating the water consumption of the property, the capabilities for rainwater catchments, and grey water output, as well as having researched the biological and environmental potential of phytoremediation, we have selected a location for a seasonal grey water system. The selected location falls within zone one of the energy garden, close enough to the house to collect grey water, but not too close to violate the law as presented by CPC/UPC, which states that the minimum distance of 5 feet from buildings and structures is required.

Due to the elevated ground water table that occurs in Sebastopol during winter months in which rainfall is most frequent, and also due to the impeded rate of phytoremediation during this season, we have chosen to employ a seasonal grey water system. During the summer months when water is scarce but sunlight is ample we will allow grey water from the nearby bathroom sink and washing machine into our constructed wetlands to be filtered by the growing flora, and during winter months the system will function as storage for rainwater that runs off the asphalt roof.

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The designed system consists of a surge tank that receives water via a rain chain from the asphalt roof of the house, two constructed wetland tanks, and an outlet tank containing a solar powered submersible pump. Each tank is connected to the next with 1 ¼” PVC within which we have installed manual on/off valves to allow flexibility in the hydraulics of the system as well as to provide a means for future maintenance. Once water is allowed entrance to the circuit from the surge tank it travels through each constructed wetland tank as well as the outlet tank many times over until it is manually released into a branched drain that dumps it at the base of the fruit trees in zone three of the property.

The tanks were sunk level with the surrounding walkways and have been secured with a 6 inch layer of gravel beneath and around them. The surrounding landscape was designed so as to compensate for any potential overflow that might occur. Native plant pockets have been incorporated into the design as well as a perennial wetland pocket and xeriscape pockets. Each micro-habitat has been developed with the intention of demonstrating possible bunker flora for grey water systems as well as to investigate the most successful method of utilizing the space surrounding grey water systems. The selected plants are neither root crops nor low growing edibles, but rather plants that exhibit phytoremediating capabilities as well as function as pollinator attractants so as to benefit the ecology of the surrounding garden and constructed wetlands.

The rainwater that feeds the system during winter months is diverted from an 8.5x24’ section of the roof (capable of capturing 5,205.825 gallons of rainfall over the course of a year. The system was intentionally designed to account for January, the wettest month of the year, in which the average daily input of rainwater into the system is 35.6 gallons per day.

8.65 monthly in. rainfall/31 days = 0.279 daily in. rainfall

0.279 * 204sqft = 4.7 daily cubic feet water * 7.5 gallons/cubic ft = 35.6 daily gallons of water

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During summer months, the system was designed to receive grey water from the washing machine and public bathroom sink. Using the proposed grey water output values per person per week, we can estimate that 30.5 gallons of grey water will enter the system each day. For phyotremediation to occur it is recommended that the water be allowed 2-4 days circulation within the constructed wetlands. With a 360 gallon system we could afford an input rate of 90 gallons per day. This compensates for the projected 30.5 gallons of daily grey water input during the summer and 35.6 gallons of daily rainwater

input during the winter.

Upon circulating through the system for 2-4 days, a portion of the water is removed and replaced with the contents of the grey water surge tank or the rain water catchment surge tank. The proposed area in which treated grey water shall be distributed lies within zone 3 of the property; it is distributed through branched drains which deposit into mulch basins surrounding fruit trees. The trees receiving the treated water are located 55 feet away from the system. So as to comply with legal requirements stated in CPC/UPC, all pipes involved in the disposal of treated grey water are buried at depths lower than 9 inches.

IMPLEMENTATION

Throughout the implementation of the system, aerial photographs have recorded each procedure, step by step. These provide us with both documentation of the procedure involved in building a grey water system and serve as to-scale diagrams of the system. We have intentionally recorded the construction pictorially as well as through written report so as to meet the requirements laid out by CPC/UPC.

Because the system will not operate in the phytoremediation of grey water until permits allow, we have not yet installed the tanks associated with that process, but rather focused our efforts on the rain water catching components of the system. Although the design and construction of the system is site specific, we have created what we consider to be a general implementation plan. It outlines the steps that were required through the progression of implementation.

WINTER IMPLEMENTATION PLAN

Phase 1: Excavating and Setting Rainwater Catchment Tanks

* Upon determining the necessary capacity of the system and appropriate tank size, and having already selected a site

- Remove topsoil and hard pan

- Deposit layer of drain rock

- Determine desired slope of pipes per/foot

- Design layout for pipes

- Design layout for garden/constructed wetland pockets

- Trench for pipes

- Line garden/constructed wetland pockets with fabric

- Set tanks and level

Phase 2: Plumbing Rainwater Catchment Tanks (Hydraulics)

- Determine desired width of pipe

- Mark and cut holes for tank adaptors once tanks are set at level

- Measure and cut PVC and install manual ball valves for maintenance

- Install pump

- Test the hydraulics of the system and check for leaks

- Determi

ne the method of flushing system and dispersing treated water

- Design layout of branched drain

- Trench for drain

Phase 3: Softscaping

- Determine plants to be included in constructed wetland

- Deposit layer of drain rock

- Secure valve boxes around manual ball valves

- Deposit top layer of pea gravel

- Fill garden pockets with soil or Wetland pockets w/ lava rock

- Cover branched drain with soil and establish community of plants where water is deposited

SPRING IMPLEMENTATION PLAN

Phase 4: Establishing Constructed Wetland Ecosystem

- Plant determined plants within tanks and in surrounding pockets

- Slowly integrate mosquito eating fish, and bottom feeding fish

- Systematically add beneficial microbes

- Monitor condition of established ecosystem

SUMMER IMPLEMENTATION PLAN

* To begin upon approval of the proposed grey water system

Phase 5: Excavating and Setting Grey Water Surge Tank

* Upon determining the necessary capacity of the system and appropriate tank size, and having already selected a site close to rainwater catchment system.

- Remove topsoil and hard pan

- Deposit layer of drain rock

- Determine desired slope of pipes per/foot

- Design layout for pipes

- Design layout for garden/constructed wetland pockets

- Trench for pipes

- Set surge tank level

* Must be 5’ from house or building

Phase 6: Plumbing Grey Water Surge Tank

- Install optional grey water valve into household plumbing

- Determine desired width of pipe

- Mark and cut holes for tank adaptors once tanks are set at level

- Measure and cut PVC and install manual ball valves for maintenance

- Connect grey water output pipes to grey water surge tank

- Connect grey water surge tank and rain water catchment system

- Test hydraulics of the system and check for leaks

* There can be absolutely no leaks

FUNCTION AND MAITENANCE

The proposed system functions by employing the remediation capabilities of wetland ecosystems. The plants selected are hyperaccumulators of the heavy metals and organic contaminants found in grey water, as well as substrate for promoting microbial remediation. As the plants grow, toxins are removed from the water, and it becomes available for reuse. In order for the system to function properly, certain methods must be employed in the introduction of grey water, and the removal of treated water to and from the system.

The proposed system functions as a circuit; into one end grey water and rainwater are introduced and from the other treated water exits. In order to monitor the impact of the wetland ecosystem on contaminants in the incoming water, samples must be taken from the suspended grey water and rainwater runoff prior to entering the system. Likewise, the treated output must be collected and analyzed. Quantitative data will provide insight on contaminant levels and microbial activity of the water at each stage of treatment and serve as an indication of how long water should remain within the system. So as to eliminate the possibility of removing untreated water from the system, treated water must be removed prior to the addition of grey water.

Monitoring of plant tissue is required so as to assess the health of the system and the accumulation of contaminants. Data produced from such analyses will indicate when phytoextraction is most productive and provide information about the capabilities of each plant. Because the removal of contaminants relies upon the plants and microbes within the system, and they undergo seasonal changes and winter dormancy, grey water should not be added to the system during periods of dormancy. At this point, all grey water must be redirected into city sewer lines and the system switched over to rainwater.

Due to the importance of maintaining the hydraulics of the system, the submerged effluent pump must be monitored daily. The addition of grey water must cease at any sign of pump malfunction. Grey water must not be allowed into the system until the pump is repaired or replaced. All repairs and improvements upon the system should be made with caution and in keeping with the goals of the system.

Now that many of the crops in our garden are established we are able to start interplanting beneficial flowers among the rows.

There are many benefits to interplanting flowers and herbs among the rows of energy crops or vegetables

1. Attract Pollinators
2. Attract Beneficial Insects
3. Repel Garden Pest Insects
4. Increase Biodiversity in the Garden
5. Increase Production
   

* Miscanthus w/ Strawflower * Soybeans w/ Marigolds * Sunflowers w/ Cosmos

As the crops grow, we are racing to equip the garden with the tools required for the production of ethanol as a fuel source.

Ethanol Production

1. Fermentation

To produce ethanol from the crops that we are growing we must first mascerate and press the sugar/starch rich part of the plant into what is called the wort.

By bringing the wort to a boil in a stainless steel kettle we are able to kill off the bacteria and other microbes that would compete with the distillers yeast that we introduce once the wort has cooled down. The quicker the cooling process the better; this reduces the risk of bacteria reestablishing residence in the mixture. Once the yeast has been added the contents of the kettle are refered to as the mash. It is the mash that we add to our airtight fermentation containers and allow to ferment for 1-3 days.

Before adding the yeast it is important to check the temperature of the mixture. Yeast prefers temperatures of 80-90 degrees farenheit.

Before adding the yeast it is important to check the sugar content of the mixture. Because yeast converts about half of the sugar to alcohol (the other half into CO2) and because yeast commonly perishes in alcohol percentages of 15% and higher, it important to dillute your wort to sugar percentages of 20-30%. By adding cooled sterilized water you can quickly cool the wort while reducing the sugar content.

C6H12O6 → 2CO2 + 2C2H5OH

Before adding the yeast it is important to check the pH of the mixture. Yeast performs best at a slightly acidic pH of 4-4.5. By using lithmus paper and adding an acid or base accordingly this pH can be obtained.

Yeast can be added once the mixture meets these conditions. Allow the mash to ferment for three days before disturbing the anaerobic process.

2. Distillation

After fermentation the mash should have an alcohol percentage ranging from 10-20%. So as to obtain the higher percentages required for running a vehicle distillation is necessary. Using a reflux still, obtaining alcohol percentages up to 95% is possible. The remaing 5% water can be removed using zeolite or corn grain as a filter. Constructing a still and obtaining our experimental distillers license is the next step in our goal of producing fuel from the crops that we are growing at the Sebastopol Demonstration Energy Garden.

Wednesday was the new moon, so according to biodynamic principles we have a three day window on either side to start new seeds and plant seedlings that we started on the last new moon. To prepare for this time, I put forth a semi-frantic burst of action, harvesting the millet, amaranth, quinoa, corn, and flax. I have weeded and cleaned nine beds, roughly 1000 square feet, and now that the frenzy has slowed I am completely haunted by the Bermuda grass.

Yes, the amaranth was a stunning orange, and the yield from one bed was impressive and exciting. Sure, it was the first time I have seen quinoa growing in a garden, and it was delicious. The corn, millet, and flax can make fuel and feed nations, but on more than one occasion in the past week, I have had dreams (read: nightmares) about Bermuda grass.

After three days of weeding in the hot sun, with the sounds of birds and cars to keep me company, the rhizomatous pattern of this invasive weed probed its way into my subconscious. The grass creates a long chain, penetrating at least 8 inches deep (probably more) and it relentlessly spreads its way across any open ground. Its pattern is uniform, its behavior is consistent.

Preparing the beds for the winter crops, as is usually the case with gardening, I was left with my own thoughts. Daily, my hopes and fears surfaced as I thought about the state of the world in forty years. I continued to pull the Bermuda grass. The work developed a rhythm and the birds provided the melody.

For entertainment, or perhaps because it is harder to completely quiet the mind, I allowed my thoughts to create pictures of the future. On the fear end of the thought spectrum, I saw the suburban landscape as wasteland, ghetto, and desert. Cut off from cities, which were controlled by a repressive and authoritative government, there was hardly any productive human activity and the flow of goods and services was extremely limited. Visions such as these are demoralizing and self defeating, and one night last week, the night of the Bermuda grass nightmare, I allowed this perspective to darken my mood and disrupt the rest of my day.

Late last week the energy at Post Carbon Institute was infectious. There was a slew of activity as more than a dozen people came through for meetings, tours, and to see the new electric Ford Rangers. As I was working, I again let my mind entertain itself. This time, with so much collective energy focused on creating positive responses to global problems, visions of hope and renewal uplifted my day. The same communities that the day before were devastated by peak oil and climate change, were thriving. The pace of travel and the movement of goods were also slower, but the more densely planned neighborhoods were teeming with life. Gardens were in full bloom and there was laughter everywhere. People were riding bicycles and there were baskets offering surplus fruit in front of every house.

Needless to say, with visions of possibility and renewal, the Bermuda grass came out easier than when I imagined destruction. After a long and insightful week of garden maintenance, I notice a choice. I can label the Bermuda grass as an unwelcomed, invasive, and obnoxious problem. Certainly, that would have some truth. Or, I can see the plant for what it is. By covering the ground, breaking up the soil, and setting roots relentlessly, the plant is useful for certain functions.

Regardless of how I judge it, I want to model my activism and work after this fierce plant. Seeing the pattern of its growth, it is consistent, resourceful, and strong. It works in network with other strands of its family to create a comprehensive web that works underground and above the surface to create a movement that will never be nullified. In order to see my visions of hope and positive change come true, I will take this lesson in work ethic from a plant that I might otherwise label “invasive”.